Europe · Travel

Hungry (and thirsty) in Heidelberg

Heidelbergs food scene offers everything from authentic German gems to outlandish gastronomy to street vendors selling nutella crepes aplenty. We weren’t after gastronomy when we went to  Heidelberg, just traditional German food to fill you with warmth after a cold winters day, for a reasonable price.

The first place we stopped at came highly rated on Trip Advisor, with good cause. Schnitzelbank is a family run restaurant just off Haupestrasse. I recommend you get there early to get a seat (if you don’t have a reservation), as tourists and locals flock here for the lovely atmosphere and grotto like appearance. The entrance it’s extremely unremarkable from the outside and easily missed so keep your eyes peeled down Haupestrasse.

The food comes in great mountainous portions, authentic and delicious, with a list of local wines and beers to please everyone, it’s great for dinner – plus, some great vegetarian options too. They’ve got a menu in both English and German, so no need to be playing the guessing game. The tables are long rows rubbing shoulders with strangers, which is fun to share stories and find out what’s good about town.

The hole in the wall cafe at the top of Koningstuhl’s funicular railway station has a cracking view, their hotpot soup was rich, smooth and packed full of veggies, with a choice of wursts and hot drinks.

It’s worth it for the view but a great place to fuel up for lunch and make a plan of action for the rest of the day with the city at your feet and a gluhwein in hand.

Kupferkanne is where we stopped for lunch.

One of the ladies there has a fantastic character, we watched her quickly turn the cold shoulder to anyone not at least trying to speak German. Learn a word or two to get a smile and you’re in for great service.

A wall is plastered in tips from all over the world, some that have gone out of circulation quite some time ago. The food is of good quality, a fair price and a great spot to watch the world go by on Haupestrasse.

We visited Strohauer after walking along the Neckar, having a chilly breeze off the water there was nothing better than sinking down into a hot chocolate in the quaint Victorian setting.

It’s also quite famous for it’s desserts and pastries, having made many cakes for Royalty across the world and national occasions. Even Queen Elizabeth II herself has sampled Strohauer’s sweet pastries. They’ll tell you all about it in their menu’s which you can pour over whilst gulping down their hot chocolate. It’s thick enough to reassure you it is not made from a packet and you probably don’t need the slice of cake, but they are delicious… plus cheese cake is really light, so it’s basically like not having anything…

The ladies behind the counter are all decked out in traditional dress and the interior is all sourced from historic locations around the world. Outside tables and chairs pour into the street, where people sat when it was sunny in a blanket enjoying the buzz of the main street whilst having a leisurely coffee.

Vetter’s Alt Heidelberger Brauhaus. We kept returning to this waterhole, enjoying some of the local steins of beer after a long day of walking about Heidelberg. You step in and you’re greeted by three copper tons and hops hanging from the ceilings like chandeliers.

Again the tables are communal, squeeze in wherever there’s room or stand and have a chat to the friendly bar staff. It’s always choc-a-bloc in here and if you manage to grab a seat order the apple strudel and wash it down with any of their beers – or a shandy go on, I won’t judge.

If you’re after something a bit more metropolitan for a night cap, then Untere strasse is lined with bars from novelty 80’s themed to sophisticated cocktails.


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